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Meliorist on the Move

6 months on the road tracing Australia

Meliorist on the Move- Darwin

June 16, 2025
“ ’meliorism’ -the belief that the world can be made better by human effort. ”
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What is it to be an Australian is a question that has been with me for many years and more so in the days after the No vote in the referendum. What makes us united as the identity of being Australian? Is it the same thing in Bondi as in Barunga? Once upon a time I think the idea of an Australian was this larrikin character that was tough but kind, could do anything, good at sport in fact was a good sport. Phrases like ‘fair dinkum’, ‘she’ll be right’ and‘‘fair go’ seemed to be what people thought of us as Australians.

The defeat of the Voice referendum, was an expression of mean spiritedness not aligned with the notion of giving everyone a ‘fair go’. To acknowledge that Aboriginal people were here when this land was settled and deserved recognition as first peoples in our constitution seemed a no brainer and a mark of our cultural maturity. To be able to work with Indigenous communities to understand and reconcile what was done to them during those years through a Makarrata process would be beneficial to all. The goal of the referendum ‘To establish a mechanism where First Nations people could make representations to the Parliament and the Executive Government of the Commonwealth on matters relating to Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples’….what could be wrong with that? There are mechanisms already in place for citizens, interest groups, non-government organizations, and political parties to make representations to the Parliament and Executive and there are currently 62 committees that already do so. What harm could it have done to add a First Nations voice to that already long list?

It begs the question- What are we afraid of?

So what kind of Australia do I live in, and what does Australia mean.

We set out on the 31st May with the intent to get to the Barunga Festival 3,000 km away in western Arnhem Land Northern Territory by the 6th June. We stopped by a lagoon just outside of Roma, by the Barcoo River at Blackall, by the side of the highway north of Winton, at the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse between Camooweal and Tennant Creek then the hot springs at Mataranka then on to Barunga.

Barunga

What we experienced over those three days will stay with me forever. I was a guest on their country, Barunga, and the Jawoyn welcomed us into their event. It was a celebration of sport, art and culture with mobs coming from across the NT to compete, dance, celebrate and connect.

Tiwi Island Dancers at Barunga Festival

“The main aim of the festival is to bring people together, sharing and understanding each other’s problems. This way we can get to know one another properly.”
— Bangardi Robert Lee

I am not sporty spice but watching the AFL comp was exhilarating…the speed and prowess was incredible. During the day there were softball, football and basket ball matches, fire making and spear throwing comps, an art market, workshops and demonstrations. Each afternoon different mobs took part in the Bunggul- traditional dance performances and at night there was a packed program including an Indigenous fashion parade with aspiring models, Barunga Beats disco, Thelma Plum concert, a performance by the Ilbijerri Theatre Company of Big Names No Blankets- the story of the Warumpi Band and an introduction to the mesmerising voice of Ngulmiya.

It was a unique encounter.

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“ The Barunga Statement was made and presented to the then Prime Minister Bob Hawke 37 years ago. It calls for the recognition of Indigenous land rights, the establishment of a Treaty between Indigenous and non-Indigenous Australians, and the implementation of a national policy of self-determination for Indigenous Australians. Yothu Yindi went on to write the worldwide hit “Treaty” as a result of this gathering at the Barunga Festival.”

Walking on country

Next we headed to Katherine and to the Nitmiluk Gorge (Katherine) and Leliyn (Edith) Falls. I think I was still feeling discombobulated from the previous six months efforts; it had been a time of deadlines, committees, exhibitions and to do lists, a mad dash to get everything sorted and packed up and in the van for our road trip, the long drive to get to the festival and the cultural overwhelm led to tensions in the van at times. I picked up a cold somewhere along the way and by the time we were at the gorge I was feeling a bit shattered and low energy. I went on a cruise up the river to get a better look at the gorge from the water and Michael took a walk along the ridge line.

Nature has its way of restoring balance and perspective. At Leliyn Falls my cold seemed to have abated and we made a hike up to Sweetwater pool at the top of Leilyn falls (about 9 km). I swam in cool waters, under flowing waterfalls, clambered over rock ledges and across creeks. As I walked observing what was in flower, what trees were growing, what birds could I hear, I felt stronger, calmer and clearer.

Now at Darwin staying for a few days in an apartment overlooking the harbour, I have time to reflect.

This country, whatever we might call it, has a lot to tell us…. and I am on the road to find out.

Bron

In resilience, road trip Tags #TracingAustralia, #MelioristOnTheMove, Thelma Plum, Ngulmiya, Warumpi Band, Barunga statement
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